Lagavulin 16 Yr

There are few drinks whose pouring can induce yourfellow unknowing drinkers to inhale and then, as a consequence, walk outside tosee if someone is having a spontaneous bonfire. Lagavulin is one of thesedrinks. Although it is a whisky I have sampled on numerous occasions, it neverceases to blow me away with its subtle power and complexity. 

On this occasion it was a weeklong stint onMetronidazole and consequent time on the wagon that gave me a hankering for a dram of great quality and sophistication. The dregs from New Year aside, thequality pickings were slim. Glenmorangie, a superior whisky to be sure, justwasn't enough; it's luscious fruit-like nose depleted by the repeated openingsof weekend lodgers. The Glenfiddich: empty and maliciously placed back its boxto entice the eventual disappointment of the luckless imbiber. It then occurredto me that I had stashed something in the back of the kitchen cupboard prior toNew Years Eve; having forgot about it, I assumed it must still be there. I hadhidden it, primarily with selfish intent but also to prevent the disapprovinggasps of John Smiths drinking relatives. 

The Lagavulin. There it was. Not much left, but enoughfor a decent dram. The gasps, as it happens, were mine, although they were notdisapproving. To call this ‘a dram of great quality and sophistication’ is an understatement; it may indeed be the mostconsistently brilliant whisky ever to be had. Upon sipping this wonderful malt,I began thinking about all the different Lagavulin bottling's that I havetasted. I remember my first: a 16yr finished in Pedro Ximenez port casks;somehow the magic of my first taste has never left me. It may not be the drinkfor everyone, in fact I know it isn't, but I truly do pity those who cannotappreciate the peat and pepper of the nose, the brine and salt of the palletand the long, peaty, alcoholic finish.     

Moredifficult to find that many whiskies, it is perhaps one of the least famous ofthe Islay malts – its Ardbeg, Laphroig and Bruichladdich brethren beating it tothe punch – but on average it is most certainly the tastiest and most consistent.It can be brought from some higher end supermarkets (Waitrose and the like) butit may take more time and patience to locate in bars. The 16yr, priced ataround £38-40 is the standard expression with older bottling’s comings in atfar higher prices.

There aresmokier whiskies, Ardbeg for one, and great whiskies too, but there is somethingindescribable about the joys of a Lagavulin. According to its wonderfullystylish and understated bottle, locals say: “time takes out the fire but leavesin the warmth.” I dare say they are right.


Joe