Making
the most of a very spring-like day in early February we took a boat out on
Burrard Inlet and launching at Port Moody sped up Indian Arm to the falls. Turning
around at Wigwam Inn – now the Royal Vancouver
Yacht Club, its days as a gentrified brothel behind it – we came back to see the sunset
spread behind the mountains like a gigantic bruise from which trails of cloud
veined out over the dusky sky. Wind chilled faces and hands needed
relief so we stopped at The Boathouse restaurant for a drink and a bite to eat.
As it was a game night oysters were on special at $1.20 a go so I cautiously
ordered a couple of the Chef’s Bay variety. After being told that it was the
wrong time of year for my choice I settled on a starting round of two Royal
Miyagi.
The Boathouse has an extensive wine and cocktail list so could have offered a good Chablis
to accompany my oysters but I was hankering after a Scotch. My initial instinct
was to go with something that had spent its life ageing close to the sea: salt and
seaweed would be worthy companions for the regal oyster. I asked if the bar
stocked any Islay Single Malts and was told they had Crown Royal (excellent
when topped with ginger ale and lime) so I jumped the comprehension barrier by
asking more generally for a Single Malt Scotch. Talisker was duly mentioned and
I ordered up a single measure of the ten year old. In reflection my want of a
briny Islay Malt may have been a little rash as the lingering iodine in some of
the island’s heftier candidates may have proved overpowering for the oyster’s
delicate flavors. As it happened the Talisker substitute worked wonderfully. I was greeted
with a smoky element that seemed more pronounced than in previous liaisons with
this malt. The peppery dimension found in Talisker’s older expressions was almost
entirely absent but in the circumstances this did not detract from the overall
experience. Talisker affords a good balance between the qualities of the Islay
and Mainland malts but has a character that betrays its island birthplace.
Taking a mere lip moistener of this younger and perhaps less complex dram from
Skye prepared the palate perfectly. The additional hint of the aforementioned
smoke to the first briny, then fresh, and finally delicious umami aftertaste of
the oyster lifted the entire composition. I quickly made an order for four more
oysters.
Chris
Chris
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