Once upon a time, a few
weeks ago, the Whisky Dogs attended a party in the Sussex Down. A
fairly small affair: gazebo, bar, punk covers band, piles of food
and, as all parties should have, a peacock. Peacocks are brilliant.
They're conversation starters. They're funny to look at.
They're..well. That's actually about all they are. But that's their
appeal. They're funny and you can talk about them; perfect thing to
have at a party. Nestled below the Firle Beacon on Nicholas Gage, 8th
Viscount Gage's estate the party was held in the manicured garden of
a coaching inn turned small holding and certainly possessed a
picturesque, Sussex charm. One which was only added to by the
presence of a large number of the local hunt. The whole thing did
become a bit...horsey. Not a bad thing, of course, and certainly led
to some unusual conversations. Never had I thought to hear so much on
the topic of horse dieting.
And so we drank the
night away. I recall a case of Thornbridge's Wild Swan vanishing
before the sun set. Very tasty it was too. There was also a bottle of
Ballantine's 17 Year Old, the best whisky in the world in 2011, which
disappeared in moments. Also there was some gin. Quite a lot of gin.
Possibly rather too much gin. And so it went, singing, dancing, gin.
Then we fell asleep in our tents or, erm, cars; only to be woken by
the charmingly rural sound of the inhuman banshee shrieks emanating
from the bloody peacock. They do not make pleasant noises.
There we were.
Hungover. Hungry. Tired. In tents. Facing the unrelenting, baking sun
of a summer's morn in southern England. This was truly a day not seen
since the Luftwaffe contested the skies over the verdant rolling
hills of the Downs. It was desperate. It was also rather unpleasant.
We tried everything our striving, suffering minds could think of to
improve our situation. Food. Coffee. Tears. Sleep. A bracing
cliffside walk. Striding into the sea, chased by a spaniel. Nothing
was working. Were we doomed?
Eventually we came to
the obvious conclusion. We needed a beer. We needed it badly. It
wasn't easy. Body and mind rebelled; it was too hot, we were too
hungover. Using the lessons learnt the previous evening from our
red-coated, fox-slaying brethren we took our hangovers in a firm hand
and retreated to the Pilot Inn for a pint of Harveys.
Harveys is a family-run
brewery in Lewes which has been in business for some 200 years and is
something of an institution in the southern counties; especially East
Sussex. This is a beer which belongs to a place like few others.
Other regional beers can be enjoyed practically anywhere they can be
found. Thornbridge's offerings may be at their best on a windswept
hilltop, peering out at the persistent drizzle that characterises the
Peaks, but they're as wonderfully palatable regardless of where
they're enjoyed. Another coastal brewery, St Austell, may actually be
better enjoyed inland and away from the salt tang of the Cornish air.
Harveys, much like a
foaming ale version of Antaeus, loses something when taken away from
its chosen ground. Away from sea and cliff and Down the ale tends to
fall a little flat. Maybe it just doesn't travel well. As such the
Pilot was probably one of the better places to indulge in several
pints of the stuff. The sea is ever present and the place is
basically perched on the edge of a cliff, at the eastern edge of the
Downs. Maybe it was the location, maybe the context, maybe the
tortured state of our nerves and livers. Whevs.
That pint of medicinal
ale was, without exaggeration, one of the best pints I have ever
savoured. Everything came together. Sat in the sun, pleasantly tired,
with sand in my shoes and the sound of sea and gull that first sip
was like a snatched taste of Elysium. And, frankly, if that isn't a
reason to go drink a beer by the sea then nothing will ever persuade
you.
James
Also, ignore everything
positive previously said about peacocks. Squawking monstrosities.